83 V-max Clutch weights

[VectorBoy]

Have 83 V-max with stock 102 comet clutch. Weights in the clutch now are A1, the parts listing shows them useing A3. Should i use A1 or A3? thanks for the help.

[tyler440]

why would you want to run anything but the recommended a-3's? yamaha seemed to have everything pretty damn good from the factory as long as you get the center to center and offset right.... also make sure the engagement is right around 4500 and you should be good....

the only reason i would see to run the a-1 weights is because they are kinda expensive to go buying 3 new ones... but honeslty i have no idea what those weights are going to act like and if you run into problems that will be the first thing we tell you to change

[Bob Vehring]

I would say, In most case, for most people,Tyler is absolutely correct, I will add a few thoughts tho.
First, My VM hasn't moved an inch yet, so I can't say anything specific to these, but I do have many decades of both trail riding hot rods, and racing.
In racing, clutching is everything, on the trail its always a compromise. If your number one goal is to beat your buddies across the lake, setting up you clutches for just that will pick up both speed and acceleration. However you may well have lost some performance when it gets down to racing threw the turns and hills in the woods. Your asking your clutches to do something completely different their.

If you have made any changes to your sled, pipe, porting, gear changes ect. a change in clutching is probably needed to take full advantage of those changes. Many sleds come with clutching guides if your a high alt. rider.

The factory will tell you the RPM that you sled should shift out at. This is the number where your tach stays at, as the sled picks up speed. In drag racing we wanted the sled to come of the line and hit the shift point, then stay exactly on that number for the length of the run. If the rpms either went up, or down from our target, we would change clutch components until we got what we needed. Trail sled get a lot of miles and usually not enough maintainance. If your RPM's change, often its do to worn bushings in the clutch, bad bearings or something worn in the drive train. Before you dive into changing springs and arms, be sure everything else is right.

As Tyler said the factories do a good job of choosing the best all around clutch set up, for most people this is a very good choice.

[vmax-540]

Hay Vectorboy, These guys are right on what they are saying, But I have heard of using the A1's with a Red Comet spring, some people and even Comet sayes it works good but I have never tryed it myself. I do know that the 1983 & 1984 SR-V and I think the 1988-1990 High altitude Exciter came with the A-1's in them so maybe someone changed clutches along the way. If I were you and it had the Red spring with A-1's give it a try what do you have to loss ,after all it's no big deal to replace them with the right weights and spring.

[Bob Vehring]

Jeff is right, I have changes springs and arms on the trail. Watch your tach, it will tell you if its working

[tyler440]

true the a-1's/ red spring combo might be good for what your riding... but who knows, until you try it.... you definitly want the clutch to engage at 4300-4500 tho... anything less and youll bog the motor for the first 20 feet....(thats what i have found)

also the max rpm as listed in the tuning data under the article index is 8200 +/- 200 so shoot for that range too

clutches are a real science... thats what seperates the men from the boys when its time to go racing