I have a 108C that is stuck to my crankshaft and refuses to let go.
I have bent two pullers by getting them tight and then hitting the head with a hammer. The pullers buckled between the crank threads and the puller threads.
When the puller bent the first time, it bent the crank threads slightly. I was able to thread the bolt back into the crank using lots of WD-40.
I have twice used a propane torch to heat where the belt rides when the clutch is disengaged. Twice the jetting froze up in the torch. The pullers did not loosen during the torching session.
I believe I am at the limit of how tight I can get the puller.
What do I try next?
I have an acetylene torch.
How hot can I get the clutch?
Am I heating it in the right place?
Will I need to cut the clutch off?
How do I avoid damaging the end of the crank?
Stubborn clutch removal
Joe, Welcome to Vintagevmax ! Tilt your sled up on the right side with the the clutch facing up. Add a couple of oz's of motor oil into the clutch bolt hole (hydraulic pressure !) then screw in your puller make, sure you do not have too much oil and not enough threads on the puller. Tighten then tap with a hammer and repeat. Ps. I use a small amout of Never Sieze on the pto shaft before installing a clutch and have not had any problems !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFb6NU1giRA
"I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." Thomas Jefferson
"I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." Thomas Jefferson
I got the 108C off the shaft tonight using the rod style puller.
I used the acetylene torch with a big tip to apply heat to the outside of the tube at the base of the fixed drive sheave.
The clutch was 265 F when it came off.
How much anti-seize is appropriate for the taper and how much on the threads?
I used the acetylene torch with a big tip to apply heat to the outside of the tube at the base of the fixed drive sheave.
The clutch was 265 F when it came off.
How much anti-seize is appropriate for the taper and how much on the threads?
I got the new clutch installed today.
The supplied attachment bolt was too long and it bottomed in the crank and mushroomed the end of the bolt so I had a terrible time getting the bolt back out to re-torque it to 50 ft-lb.
A thread file cleaned up the bolt nicely.
I had to try three different 1/2-20 taps before I found one that would go in the PTO hole properly.
Everything went on nicely after installing two SAE washers under the bolt head.
When I started the engine, the clutch engaged smoothly at 3600 RPM.
I believe I need to pull the cover off and add two 0.050 washers to get the engagement up to 4000 RPM.
I want to try the new setup on the snow before I install the washers.
The supplied attachment bolt was too long and it bottomed in the crank and mushroomed the end of the bolt so I had a terrible time getting the bolt back out to re-torque it to 50 ft-lb.
A thread file cleaned up the bolt nicely.
I had to try three different 1/2-20 taps before I found one that would go in the PTO hole properly.
Everything went on nicely after installing two SAE washers under the bolt head.
When I started the engine, the clutch engaged smoothly at 3600 RPM.
I believe I need to pull the cover off and add two 0.050 washers to get the engagement up to 4000 RPM.
I want to try the new setup on the snow before I install the washers.
I got a chance to ride again yesterday. See photos in show conditions topic.
The engine ran up to 7500 from a stop and then dropped to about 7000 by the time I got to 50 MPH.
It would not go over 50 MPH at 4000 Feet altitude.
The belt threw a string after 2 hours and it rolled over and broke a half hour later.
I need to remove the secondary, check the spring setting, and reinstall it with the correct offset.
If the secondary is set correctly, I will try the washer idea.
What is the preferred method of removing greasy fingerprints from the pulley faces?
Carb cleaner, Brake cleaner, Acetone, Prep-Clean, and Windex come to mind as candidates.
The engine ran up to 7500 from a stop and then dropped to about 7000 by the time I got to 50 MPH.
It would not go over 50 MPH at 4000 Feet altitude.
The belt threw a string after 2 hours and it rolled over and broke a half hour later.
I need to remove the secondary, check the spring setting, and reinstall it with the correct offset.
If the secondary is set correctly, I will try the washer idea.
What is the preferred method of removing greasy fingerprints from the pulley faces?
Carb cleaner, Brake cleaner, Acetone, Prep-Clean, and Windex come to mind as candidates.
When I checked the secondary, I found that the engine was not parallel with the jackshaft. The starter was about half an inch too low. I shimmed the front engine mount and got them parallel as best I could measure with my tape measure and two framing squares.
I am going to try it again tomorrow at the same location. They are predicting another four inches of snow tonight at 4000 feet.
It is currently snowing here at my house at 385 feet. It has been snowing and hailing off and on most of this afternoon.
I am going to try it again tomorrow at the same location. They are predicting another four inches of snow tonight at 4000 feet.
It is currently snowing here at my house at 385 feet. It has been snowing and hailing off and on most of this afternoon.
Good news and bad news:
The machine no longer eats belts on the side. It now burns the inside of the belt where the belt rides on the shaft at idle. The old belt had fabric on the inside surface. The new belt has rubber on the inner surface that gets hot and melts to the shaft. It also interferes with the engine idle.
The belt length, tension and clutch centers appear to be correct.
Is there something I should put on the inside surface of the belt or the clutch shaft to keep the friction down? I don't want to interfere with the friction surfaces on the sides, but the belt should not melt on the inside with the engine idling.
Top speed was 69 MPH following one of my previous tracks in 6 inches of fresh heavy snow.
I might have the opportunity to try it again this Saturday if the weather cooperates.
The machine no longer eats belts on the side. It now burns the inside of the belt where the belt rides on the shaft at idle. The old belt had fabric on the inside surface. The new belt has rubber on the inner surface that gets hot and melts to the shaft. It also interferes with the engine idle.
The belt length, tension and clutch centers appear to be correct.
Is there something I should put on the inside surface of the belt or the clutch shaft to keep the friction down? I don't want to interfere with the friction surfaces on the sides, but the belt should not melt on the inside with the engine idling.
Top speed was 69 MPH following one of my previous tracks in 6 inches of fresh heavy snow.
I might have the opportunity to try it again this Saturday if the weather cooperates.
hmmm sounds to me like you either have the wrong belt or you center to center is too long, it should be 12 inches.... i dont think your going to get away with putting anything on the belt or clutches, those babies spin too fast and anytype of lube is going to end up where you dont want it
My airbox is held on by one screw, not because Im lazy but because it is less weight!
Any questions or comments about this site itself can be directed to me at tylerochs@hotmail.com
Any questions or comments about this site itself can be directed to me at tylerochs@hotmail.com
Yes, I got to try it again yesterday.
The snow was heavier than last weekend.
I loosened the front motor mount and slid the motor back as far as it would move.
The belt tension looked about right and the engine would idle without burning the inside face of the belt.
I could only get about 65 MPH out of it because the snow was pitching the machine side to side and it was impossible to stay in one of my previous tracks.
The clutch is engaging at 4000 RPM now and the performance from 0 to 30 MPH is amazing. Engine RPM is just under 8000. That .100 inch shim on the spring helped immensely.
The RPM drops to 7500 between 30 and 50 MPH. The engine power seems to drop significantly with the RPM drop.
I have not pulled my secondary apart to check pre-load. The end of the spring that is visible appears to be in the right hole on the helix.
How do I safely disassemble the secondary? I have removed it from the shaft, but I am hesitant to remove the snap ring until I have some sort of restraint on it. I don't have that fancy three legged restraint that the factory recommends nor do I have one of the press type jigs that Dennis Kirk sells.
It also seem that there is a lot of friction in my track and drive system. I have replace the wheels and bearings. The friction eases when I loosen the track, but I get a ratcheting problem if I loosen it from the present tension. I get a ratcheting problem only when I am doing rainbows at full throttle. The track makes a noise when I come back down on the road hard with the throttle on hard. The lugs on the track and the drivers are not broken and I would like them to stay that way. What do I check next?
The snow was heavier than last weekend.
I loosened the front motor mount and slid the motor back as far as it would move.
The belt tension looked about right and the engine would idle without burning the inside face of the belt.
I could only get about 65 MPH out of it because the snow was pitching the machine side to side and it was impossible to stay in one of my previous tracks.
The clutch is engaging at 4000 RPM now and the performance from 0 to 30 MPH is amazing. Engine RPM is just under 8000. That .100 inch shim on the spring helped immensely.
The RPM drops to 7500 between 30 and 50 MPH. The engine power seems to drop significantly with the RPM drop.
I have not pulled my secondary apart to check pre-load. The end of the spring that is visible appears to be in the right hole on the helix.
How do I safely disassemble the secondary? I have removed it from the shaft, but I am hesitant to remove the snap ring until I have some sort of restraint on it. I don't have that fancy three legged restraint that the factory recommends nor do I have one of the press type jigs that Dennis Kirk sells.
It also seem that there is a lot of friction in my track and drive system. I have replace the wheels and bearings. The friction eases when I loosen the track, but I get a ratcheting problem if I loosen it from the present tension. I get a ratcheting problem only when I am doing rainbows at full throttle. The track makes a noise when I come back down on the road hard with the throttle on hard. The lugs on the track and the drivers are not broken and I would like them to stay that way. What do I check next?