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Electrical problem!
Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 3:36 am
by PhazerMod1
Alright heres the run down....
I just got my 83 vmax 540 all back together, restored the whole thing and re did the entire motor in it. I get it back together and i notice that the spark isn't that noticable "lightning blue"
but a bit white. I get it fired up and i've never had one these before but this machine was not running good at all. Very boggy and didn't seem to have much power at all. The next day i go to fire it up and it doesn't start. No spark! Any thoughts on this subject would be much appreciated.

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:19 am
by Vmax540
Pull apart all the connections at the engine/wiring harness connector (below the front of oil tank) then clean and tighten, these tend to get corroded or oily. The bog is most likely dirty carbs or clutches.
From the Articles section......
Source Coil Color Code/ Resistance Brn~Red/ 25 Ohm +/-10% White- Red~ Red/ 10 Ohm +/-10%
Pulsar Coil Color Code/ Resistance White- Green~ Black/ 100 Ohm +/-10%
Spark Plug Type/ Gap/ Torque NGK BR 9EV/ 0.7~0.8mm/ 2.75 m/Kg (19.9 ft/lbs)
Ignition Timing 1.6mm BTDC
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 5:23 am
by PhazerMod1
I went through everything and found that the coil with wires red and brown gave me a reading of around 200 ohms of resistance which is not even close to 25 ohms. How should i go abut fixing this problem?
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 5:46 am
by Joe
Something is loose or corroded in the stator.
It needs further inspection and testing.
The engine won't run with a 200 ohm coil resistance.
Remove the oil tank, pull starter, then the flywheel rotor to get at the stator.
You will need a puller to get the flywheel off the tapered crankshaft. I made one to fit.
There has been a significant discussion recently about stator failures and replacement procedures. Read the recent message traffic to catch up with the other people that have repaired and/or replaced their stators. You will find some of the discussion under the lighting topics.
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:22 pm
by PhazerMod1
Could have the stator sent out to a place such as Ricky Stator to be rebuilt?
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:43 pm
by Joe
Yes, you can send it out to be rebuilt, but you still need to get it out of the sled.
Usually, the problem is visible once it is out of the sled and someone that knows how to solder can fix it without rebuilding it.
Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:28 pm
by PhazerMod1
This is just a secondary question... Could weak spark make the engine run boggy and excess fuel come out the pipes????
Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:56 pm
by Vmax540
Chris, I have seen (weak spark) to be a starting factor but, never cause a bog. Your problem is most likely sticking needle & seats, miss adjusted float height or a leaky fuel pump diaphragm.
Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 2:32 am
by PhazerMod1
Yea ill take the carbs off and check em over again. I don't mean to sound stupid because I've had alot of other yamaha snowmobiles but this sled has really stumped me. I guess that's what makes it fun to restore older snowmobiles!
Thanks for your input
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:13 pm
by PhazerMod1
I got the stator out of the sled and all of the readings are correct except the brown to red but i have a sled repair manual i got online and it says the brn to red wires for the charge coil should be 225 and mines 213. Just wondering which numbers are right?
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:12 am
by Joe
If recall correctly, the wire diameter was not well controlled and the actual resistance varies between production lots.
Your reading is probably OK.
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:53 am
by PhazerMod1
Well that leaves one thing that could be bad.... The CDI unit. I've got an extra one so thats a plus.
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:16 pm
by Joe
Check the readings from the CDI connectors to rule out the possibility of a loose or broken wire in the wiring harness.
Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 12:47 pm
by PhazerMod1
ok ill check that today