VintageVmax.com

I appear to have an open wire in my stator.

I pulled my oil tank, muffller, heat shield, and starter to get at the stator.
How much more needs to be disassembled?
Do I need to pull the primary clutch and tip the engine up to get a puller on the rotor?
Do I need to drain the coolant or pull the engine?
How many hoses, cables, and wires will need to be disconnected?

I'm trying to pick a location to do the work.
Only one place has a lift overhead to pick it up.

Joe,I have done this with the motor still in the sled,you will need a short puller and short bolts.if you have the recoil off you are right there and no more dissassembly is required as long as you can get a puller in there.

Thanks.

I can work on it where it sits rather than move it to the other location.

yeah getting that stator out os one of the toughest parts on these sleds... but it is totally possible without even loosening the motor mounts... we here at vintage vmax (chuck and i ) have a special little puller that was homemade by my grandpa (chucks dad)

the puller might not be the easiest thing for someone to make, but this is how it was done.... a 4" or so bolt and nut( like 3/4" or maybe bigger)... the end of the bolt gets ground to a point to keep it centered in on the crank... on the nut there is 3 smaller nuts welded to it (spaced evenly around it) then you drill the threads out of the smaller nuts and get 3 bolts that fit into the holes on the flywheel....

i should also point out that the starter "cup" will need to be removed...

let me know if that made any sense...

I used the cup as a pattern to drill a 3/16 inch steel plate with the flywheel pattern around a 1/2 inch hole.

I put some 8 mm bolts through the plate into the flywheel
I held a 1/2 inch nut behind the plate and threaded a 1/2 inch bolt through the 1/2 inch hole with the bolt head away from the flywheel.

I turned the bolt until the flywheel popped off.

Pulling the flywheel was the easy part...Some one had glued the nut to the crank and I had a terrible time getting the nut off.

I ran the sled today and a belt exploded...That is another thread.

yep joes puller seems like it would work good....

one other thing i should mention... make sure that if you use the "outer bolt holes" (that is the 2 that i presume are supposed to be used for pulling) that you dont thread the bolts in too far... because, if in the process of pulling, if the crank turns you will rip the bolts through the coils....

i dont think you will have to worry about the coils getting harmed when you use the three inside bolts, but i put a nice gouge through one of my coils with the outer bolts... live and learn

My practice for years has been, "never use more bolt that there are threads" when using a puller.

so what did you find was the problem? how did you fix it?

The red wire to the bottom coil vibrated loose from the solder joint to the right hand coil. The vibration failure occurred where the wire exited the epoxy glob.

There was enough wire on the bottom coil, therefore I stripped off the insulation and resoldered it to the soldered joint. I then put more epoxy around the wire to make it last another 22 years.

Bah Humbug!!

I just get the CDI working, then the lighting coil quits working.

Do you they are connected?

The ground end of the lighting coil separated from the ground lug.

5 mm of copper wire soldered over the gap solved the problem.

I have pulled the stator three times in the last week. I'm getting pretty good at it.

The two round 10mm holes in the flywheel are there to loosen the stator retaining screws to allow the technician to change the ignition timing without pulling the flywheel.