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Does anyone have any tips on getting the front axle out of the tunnel when the lock collars are frozen?

My set screws seem to be rusted in place and the manual says the left collar needs to move to get the axle out.

I shot them with rust penetrator a couple hours ago. So far, the screws refuse to budge.

I thought of cutting the collar off with a cutoff wheel but I'm not sure I can get new ones.

It might be possible to drill out the set screw.

I'm not even sure I need the collars with the new track. There are two double sided inner drivers and two single sided outer drivers to drive on all six rows of lugs in the new track.

I know I need to reuse the axle.

I thought of opening the right hole in the tunnel big enough to let the right collar through. It looks like the left end of the axle will drop out of the tunnel if the right collar goes through about 1/8 inch.

My best guess right now is to cut the left collar with the cutoff wheel.

" thought of opening the right hole in the tunnel big enough to let the right collar through. It looks like the left end of the axle will drop out of the tunnel if the right collar goes through about 1/8 inch. "

Exactly what I do anytime I'm removing the chain case or drive axle. I don't understand why they made it that size of a hole in the first place ?

I have disassembled my share and Very few set screws come loose even with weeks of soaking with PB or Liquid wrench. Heating doesn't seem to help and if you ever tried drilling the set screws you'd better have a good set of bits.......

when you make the hole bigger be very carfull not to nick the shaft where the seal rides or else it is game over for the shaft....

sounds like getting the drive shaft out is a biotch .thanks for the heads up ill be going thru that here shortly need to replace my track soon.

It sounds like the hot ticket is to cut the collars to get the shaft out.

Once the shaft is out, is there any value in making the hole larger since the new drivers do not use the collars?

Update...

I cut the first collar off with a cutoff wheel. It was hard to tell when I was through the collar and I accidentally cut about 1 mm into the shaft. Once it was cut, I used a chisel to make the slot wider to get the collar to slide. It did'nt want to move. I had to break it off to get it off the shaft.

I cut the second and third collars off with a chisel. I just put the chisel on the set screw and hit it about three times and the collar cracked. A couple side hits on the crack and the back side of the collar broke. There was less damage to the shaft from the chisel than the cutoff wheel. The collars seem to be made of iron rather than steel. They dent with the chisel but cracked quite a bit sooner that I expected for steel.

I put the four drivers on the shaft and found the center two were 3 mm too far apart for the track and I have to go to the machine shop to use the press again. It was interesting that the drivers were 4 inches from the inner to outer drivers and 4 7/8 apart on the center drivers (center to center). I accidentally wrote down 5 1/16 for the center pair. My fault.

It looks like the drive shaft with the new drivers will install correctly without cutting the tunnel hole larger since the outboard collar on the right is not used with the new drivers. I will let you know what works once I get the drivers properly spaced.

i just pulled the track on my parts sled and the set screw on the axle collar was naturally welded on .sawsall a chisel and a ford hammer took care of that bugger. now i need to try and not destroy the one on my good sled .does anyone know if the collars are still available

http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fiche_s ... detail.asp



COLLAR
8K1-47526-00-00 3 $14.92

Collars, main shaft and sprocket wheels all still available from Yamaha. I ended up cutting my shaft off with a sawzall when I started my restoration. I bought everything brand new again. Over $1000.00 in my suspension alone, but it looks like just off the showroom floor!!!!!!!!! 1983 Vmax.