VintageVmax.com

Hey everyone. Have been visting the site for a while. This is my first post. I have a 87 v-max .The motor was rebuilt with ported cylinders ( I'm nervous about that!! ) and the ft has been widened. I have a lot of questions but right now I'm concerned with the rear suspension. It felt like the rear shock was seized (little travel) Took the suspension out and found the both shocks are ok, but found bent arms, worn out bearings and broken welds.
I thought before I rebuild it I'd check with you guys for your thoughts. Has anyone tried fitting a newer skid frame from the V-max 4 or the like in. I know the obvious choice would be a M-10 or expert X but those are pricey and unfortinatly I don't have the cash for that. Besides it's always more fun using a bit of enginuity and smarts to make improvements. Thanks.

Dave, Welcome to Vintagevmax ! The Original Pro-Action was considered by most people to be the best overall rear suspension up until about 1994 and then the industry went to longer travel suspensions. The Vmax4 and the 94-96 Vmax 5/600's used the same rear suspension. A well cleaned and greased P.A. will preform very well in all conditions except the roughest mogeled out trails. I have all the suspension parts from at least 5 parted sleds so, just let me know what all you need and where you live and I'll make you a good deal. PS. read the posts on my Exciter where I used the longer travel T.S.S. front struts from the 94-96 Vmax's to improve the ride which, you can also, do on a widened 540 ! The pictures show the longer travel struts. Later Chuck

Welcome Dave, Vmax540 is right the Pro Action is a good skid and does a real nice job but the Vmax 4 has a wider tunnel than the rest so it won't work.

Sorry got that wrong. Thanks to Vmax 540 for the ft end tip. The exciter looks good. I'll have to consider this for sure. Thanks again.

When you said you dropped the rear suspension points to compensate for the higher ft end, does that mean you just located the monting holes 2 1/2 inches lower ?

dave wrote:When you said you dropped the rear suspension points to compensate for the higher ft end, does that mean you just located the monting holes 2 1/2 inches lower ?

Yes........ I dropped the rear suspension out of the tunnel by adding a rear lower plate to the existing bracket ~ 2 inches which raised the rear end height. The front of rear I drilled new holes ~11/2" lower which was as far as I could go without adding a plate.

Perfect thanks again