VintageVmax.com

Ok I'll try to make this short and simple lol, I'm sure I have a rare 85 VMax 540. The first three of vin is 80N.

Ok now toward the problem I am having, It runs and idle's fine but when I go to rev it up it will not rev up, it boggs and goes back to idle when I let the throttle go. This is making me think there is something wrong with the carbs, maybe needing cleaned again or the tors thing is messed up(reason why it only idle's). The brass nipples are unplugged on the bottom of the carbs and I can't figure out were the wires are to bypass it. I've pulled the plugs and they are wet and still gets a bright blue spark. I was checking the throttle cables and the bottom cable is a lil loose, I've played with the choke and there was no difference in the way it was running so it may be the choke being stuck too. If you shake the fuel line on the pto side carb it will rev up, me thinks it could be a sync problem because of the bottom throttle cable being loose. I'm not sure were to start. Im thinking it's in the carbs or fuel pump's. The fuel is premix at 40:1, I'd like to hook up the oil pump again, but I was told to just leave it the way it is because you never can tell when the oil pump goes bad till its too late. Does anyone know were the hose's go on the carbs and is there sappose to be a hose between the carbs hooking them together? Which hose's do I plug being I'm not using the oil pump?

Do the make performance parts for these IE: Exhaust pipe, Silencer (I like them loud), Clutch upgrade, or anything else that can help make the old girl faster or at least keep up with the newer sleds.

I got this sled as a project in thoughts of it being an easy fix. I want to ride it this year, but my 72 AMF/Harley Ski-Daddler will hold me over till I get the VMax fixed

Articwolf welcome to V.V. !
T.O.R.S. simply unplug the two conections at the carb switches and then plug the two wires from the wiring harness into each other. Really sounds like you need to remove the carbs and give them a good cleaning and check the settings. http://www.vintagevmax.com/1986_service.htm
"you never can tell when the oil pump goes bad till its too late."
Oil pumps rarely fail..... bad gas, dirty carbs, lean jetting and modifications are more often the cause of engine failures. http://www.vintagevmax.com/reliablitity.htm
"Do the make performance parts for these IE: Exhaust pipe, Silencer" Stock is best.... http://www.vintagevmax.com/pipe_test.htm
"(I like them loud)" Why make issues for our sport ?
"Clutch upgrade" Sticky..... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1506

Loads of information in the articles, stickys and searches.
http://www.vintagevmax.com/article_index.htm
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1529

That's what I thought about the t.o.r.s, but my dilemma is that I can't find the wires that I need to plug into each other. I will get the carbs cleaned. Is there anything I have to watch out for I wanna do it right and soak the carbs in carb cleaner. I'm sorry about the smart remark on liking them loud I just like the sound of my AMF that's all. Thank you for all the good information. I didn't think the oil pump was that reliable, I'm so use to the Yamaha Blaster and how there pump is.

Remove carbs from machine. Remove float bowl from bottom of carbs and clean out. Make sure the floats move freely. Remove main jet from bootom of carb, blow out with compressed air, and carb cleaner. Remove choke plunger, make sure it moves freely. blow into fuel inlet, ou should be able to blow air through until you gently raise float arm. Blow out all other ports in carb with compressed air. Check numbers on jets and needle, as well as the needle clip position, check with manual. When reassembling be sure the slide is adjusted to exactly the same height. Check air screw, adjust in 1/8th turn increments, and less at the end.
That should get you really close
Compressed air is the best!!!
You can clean up everything nice with carb cleaner at the end, just don't fill the float bowls with it, they run better on gasoline.