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Vmax540
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READ before posting a question.... Please....

Post by Vmax540 »

-Vmax Specifications
http://www.vintagevmax.com/1986_service.htm

-Yamaha Part diagrams
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx
http://www.smallenginediscount.com/VMX540L.PDF

Ronnie's Part Diagrams
https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oempar ... bile/parts

-For Stock Specifications on Yamahas
Go to.... - http://www.totallyamaha.com/
- Technical Pages
- Snowmobile
- Stock Specifications
- Select Year
- Select Model !

Epic Yamaha's
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/epic_ ... chome.aspx

Barn Finds how to revive a sled. http://www.jdsleds.com/articles/barnfind/

-Belts
OEM 8M6-17641-00
Dayco Max 1080
Dayco Ultimax 125-4616
-Other Yamaha drive belts http://app.bobscycle.com/AP/AP.BELTS.YAM.HTML

-Brake conversion viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1613&start=0&st=0&s ... ulic+brake

-Crank Shaft Bearings
http://www.psep.biz/store/yamaha_snowmo ... arings.htm
-Carb. diagrams
http://www.sudco.com/mikuni.html
http://www.sudco.com/mikuni2.html
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_J ... 121C37.cfm
http://www.vintagesnow.com/Carburetors_ ... manual.pdf
the first number is the series needle, or overall length, the 2nd and sometimes 3rd numbers/letters being taper, and last is revision which states how far up the taper begins.
Back firing through the carbs is a lean issue if its back firing through the exhaust it means its rich.

-CDI’s
1976 SRX440 P#888-85540-10-00 T1A02-06-505
1977-79 Exciter T1A01-18-605
1977 SRX440 P#8F2-85540-10-00 T1A02-11-608
1978 SRX440 P#8G9-85540-10-00 T1A02-13
1979 SRX440 P#8G9-85540-10-00
1980 SRX440 P#8K2-85540-10-00 T1A01-32-906
1980 SS440 P#8K4-85540-10-00
1981 SS440 P# 8H4-85540-20-00
1982 SS440 P# 8N4-85540-20-00
1981 SRX 440 P#8K4-85540-10-00 T1A01-33
1981 SRX 440 (Updated) P#8R9-85540-10-00 it is used with the 8R9 stator
1983-86 Vmax P#8U9-85540-10-00 TIA01-43
1987-1991 Vmax P#83H-85540-10-00
CDI's for the 81.The original had only 8 degrees advance, and the 8R9 the updated one had about 20 degrees advance and retarded back after 7000 rpm's to 8 degrees at 9000 rpm's . The 8K4 or original one is the same one that the 80 SS440 used as well.

-No or intermittent Spark Two different circuits. One for lights, and one to the CDI for spark. Check the CDI for a single black wire. Disconnect this and see if you have spark. If so, the problem is in your kill switches, ignition switches, connections or wiring harness somewhere. If still no spark, check your CDI, Coils, or magneto. Be Careful when checking for spark by disconnecting the black wire, as there will be no way to kill the engine if it happens to start.
These have a history of the stator "imbedded" (mounted permanently) pulser coils losing contact thru thermal expansion. Sometimes engine heat makes it quit after a few minutes and I've heard of a few that due to how these particular ones became "disabled" (lost pulser ground to stator mounting plate)
-The electrical connections where they come out of the engine and connect to the wiring harness on the right hand bottom front of engine can cause a lot of grief. These are susceptible to oil from the oil tank, heat from the exhaust and vibration. I have personally fixed a few where it seemed like we had a bad CDI but, simply doing a through cleaning and tightening these connections the sled's ran like a top ! Same for the CDI connections to the wiring harness.
-No or intermittent Spark I have personally had a CDI that sparked fine when started cold and quit sparking after running a short period of time so, yes, CDI's can be intermittent. The run time (with spark) kept getting shorter until I switched out the CDI.
-Check all coil resistance http://www.vintagevmax.com/1986_service.htm



-Clutching
https://www.denniskirk.com/search/comet ... s.q/40.ipp
http://www.hiperf.com/cgi-bin/ss000001. ... PR=-1&TB=A
http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/cometcalguide.pdf
http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/cometcalguide.pdf
http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/Snowmobi ... ts_84.html
Comet Clutch, Spring 8U9-17643-10
http://www.vintagevmax.com/vvforum/view ... =5513#5513
Yamaha V-Max--30mm Shallow Tapered Bore
Code: 217506
(Fits `83-87 V-Max, `81 SRX) This clutch comes set up for 1-1/4 belt width.
http://www.psep.biz/store/yamaha_snowmo ... _parts.htm
http://www.vintagevmax.com/vvforum/view ... hlight=102
http://www.vintagevmax.com/vvforum/view ... hlight=102
http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/article ... epower.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWNX%3AIT
The clutch puller which it says is for the Yamaha Comets you can see here.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/217506a-comet-yamaha.html
Comet 217506A
•Limited application: fits Yamaha 1983-1984 Vmax and 1992-1997 V-max 4/ST
•Use our 217336A clutch puller with this clutch.

-Try to keep less than .030" clearance between the primary clutch and a new belt, if more remove some spider shims. This involves a special spider tool. Most shops will do it cheap.
-Keep the secondary set so the belt sits an 1/8" above the top of the sheaves, this provides a better "holeshot", and keeps the overall ratio at its lowest start. This involves shimming or removing shims behind the washer on the secondary.
-Install a higher engagement spring. Get a spring chart with the engagement & shift spring rates, and try to keep the shift rate as close to stock, or you will have to use heavier weights.
-Try tighter secondary spring settings, this will give you better back-shifting, which makes trail riding more enjoyable. Tighter spring setting will raise the RPMs, so adjust the weights accordingly.
-Gearing the sled for lower top speeds will improve clutching responsiveness, but will also increase fuel consumption. You will also have to change weights as this upsets the clutching ratio.
You can see a selection of Comet weights & spring charts on these pages starting on page 42...http://www.recreationsupply.ca/2009/2009-09_Clutch.pdf

-Comet Purple clutch springs
207888A ~ 3800 Rpm
207758A ~ 4100 Rpm



-Clutch Removal Tip the sled on its side, pour water into the clutch hole and tighten a bolt in there with teflon tape on the threads. Same can be done along with pulling the sled outside and letting the water freeze can pop the clutch off ! * Feeding rope down a spark plug hole will keep the engine from turning !

-Chrome cylinder Honing
Wiseco recommends finish honing the chrome cylinders with any where from a 240 to 400 grit, and recommend 280 grit as best. We do have a soft hone available that will do the job nicely. The part # is W6077 and will work for 63-76mm bores. You can find more information on our website at http://www.wiseco.com
Tom Davis x3109
Technical Sales
tdavis@wiseco.com
Wiseco Pistons Inc.
7201 Industrial Park Blvd.
Mentor, Ohio 44060
(440) 951-6600
-Muriatic acid can be purchased at hardware stores. It is commonly used on masonry.
Be very careful with muriatic acid. Always wear a mask, the stuff is pretty noxious. Apply it with a Q-tip only to the affected areas. The stuff eats aluminum very, very quickly. Once the acid is on the affected areas for 30 seconds scrub it off with a clean Q-tip and repeat the process until it is gone or it's something a light hone will remove. Once the acid is swabbed for the last time, rinse the cylinder in warm water to neutralize it. Don't soak the whole cylinder in acid! As for honing, use a soft dingleberry (ball) hone. Run it in and out no more than 6 or 7 times. DO NOT use a gem (stone style) hone, it will tear the chrome to shreds. Once your cylinders are clean, rub some dawn dish soap all around in the bores and brush them good with a soft toothbrush. Rinse with warm water. Then, spray a CLEAN shop towel with WD-40 and wipe the bores until the towel comes up clean. Do the WD-40 thing right away especially if you don't have a water softener at your house. Hard water will leave water spots (minerals...friction enhancers if you will) similar to what happens after a bad car wash. Once you are ready to reassemble, wipe the WD out with a dry shop rag and lube the cylinder with assembly oil. I use the handy dandy blue shop towels for pretty much everything. At $1.67 a roll, you can't go wrong. Take your time on this one, wash your hands after every step, make it count.

-Cylinder Repair Just, a Google search not an endorsement....
http://www.mt-llc.com/
http://www.usnicom.com/
http://www.nwsleeve.com/
http://www.wiseco.com/
-http://www.eastwood.com/ew-electroplati ... -zinc.html

-
Diagnosis Piston Failure's http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/pist ... _guide.htm



-Dimmer Switch

Do Not even bother with the Aftermarket rubber covers, they are nearly impossible to replace and tear easily.
DIMMER SWITCH Item Number:KX0112036
Manufacturer Item# 01-120-36 (D) Now $16.96
http://flip.autodist.com/flipautodist/c ... 015/#370/z P# KX0112036
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SPI-Dimmer- ... fe&vxp=mtr



-Engine Break in
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

-Fuel pumps are Mikuni DF52

-Fuel Tank cap hinge and/or tank neck breaking.
Push the catch with one hand and gently close the cap with the other hand. (Slam the cap and the latch Will Break)

-Gear Ratio interesting
http://www.racenssr.com/calc.htm
MPH Calculator
Fill in the appropriate information below, Then click when finished.
Engine RPM
Chain Case Gear ratio
Clutch ratio (1.00 w/o Overdrive)
Driver diameter in inches (7.07, 7.75.) The speed in MPH is miles per hour.
The same DRIVER size and RPM will give the following speeds based on the following gear ratio changes.
1.40 1.45 1.50 1.55 1.60 1.65 1.70 1.75


RPM / gear ratio x wheel circumfrance / 1056 = MPH
gear ratio = bottom gear / by top gear example 18/33 is 1.83 gear ratio
wheel circumfrance = height of driver 7 inch driver is 7 times 3.14 = 1.666 is circumfrance
8250 / 1.83 x 21.98 / 1056 = 93.93mph
at 8250rpm with 18/33 gearing and 7 inch drivers=93.83 mph


-Handwarmer Installation
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/HotGripsInstallationFAQ.htm

-Cold hand warmers
Do you self a favor and get a can of expanding weather sealing foam then, drill holes in the end of the hand warmer grips just big enough to insert the cans nozzle then fill your handlebars. This will help retain the heat of the warmers and help deaden any handle bar vibrations.

-Handle bar pad replacement
Do Not Overtighten and pull the screws on this PLASTIC !

-Head light dims when braking
Use a Red LED taillight bulb http://www.bluhmenterprises.com/product ... gory_id=29

-Horse Power
The 81 SRX was 88 HP @ 9250 rpm (Per T.B.) and the Vmax was 86 HP at 8250 rpm's (Per. Dyno Tech)

-Lighting Coil
http://www.psep.biz/store/yamaha_snowmo ... _coils.htm
V-MAX 83-91 YAM VMX540 L/C ADLP010854 17.95
*I always make sure my headlight is off (Down Position) before starting and turning off the Vmax to avoid a surge on the electrical system.
** Hold your hand on the head light cover when releasing the popup latch to avoid the assembly from being jarred and broken.

-Dim Headlight ? http://www.vintagevmax.com/ledbulbtest.html

-Off Season Storage
Drain your tank to ~1 gallon of gas, then add Stabil or any other gas stabilizer. Start your sled and allow time for the stabilizer to reach the carbs.

-Octane Booster http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/show ... hp?t=83888
Want to make a gallon of some AWSOME octane booster,, here you go... 100 oz of TOULENE ( found at home depot or a paint supply store).. You could use XYLENE or MTBE,, but " tolly" is easily accessible.... 25 ounces of MINERAL SPIRITS ( diesel fuel or kerosene will work just as well) and THREE OUNCES of AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.... Synthetic trans fluid is preferred,, but type "A" will even suffice... It will probably cost you around THREE DOLLARS TO FOUR DOLLARS for all these ingredients,,, BUY,, you can sell 16 ounce cans of this stuff to your buddies for FIVE OR SIX DOLLARS a 16 ounce can.... NO PLASTIC BOTTLES by the way.. STEEL or TIN CANS.... Keep away from ALUMINUM TOO !!!! Somewheres around 114 octane at up to 5%

-Paint
http://www.color-rite.com/
1987-VMX540-V-max
Factory Color Factory Code Color Rite Top Color Rite Base
Primary Color: Urushi Black 0JW 5320 None

-Piston/ Rings 540
O.E.M. Piston 8U9-11631-01-94
O.E.M. Chrome bore rings 8U9-11601-00-00
Wiseco Chrome bore rings CDM
Wiseco sleeved bore Rings CD
Kimpex R09-816 AM I was told by Kimpex these were designed to be able to run in either Chrome or Steel cylinders..... ?

-Piston/ Rings 1981 440

O.E.M. Piston P# 8M6-11631-00-93
O.E.M. Ring P# 8M6-11631-00-00
Aftermarket Kimpex Piston stock bore P# 09-8023

Penetrating Oil Test
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2350&p=8717&hilit=acetone#p8717

- Rear Suspension Shocks
Search all the following sleds had the original Pro-Action Rear Suspension.
1983 to 1991 SRV 540
1983 to 1991 Vmax 540
1991 to 1993 Exciter
1992 to 1997 Vmax 750/800 with the exception of the 97 XT models
1994-1996 Vmax 5/600 with the exception of the 96 XT models
KAYABA INDUSTRY CO. LTD
Front of Rear suspension middle shock ~ 119/16" or 295m.m. C.C.
Rear ~ 14.5" or 366m.m. C.C.
1992Vmax4 Rear KYB 13D P# 8AX-47480-00 Infinate Preload
?Year Vmax540 Front/Middle KYB H22 P# 8V9-47481-00 Infinate Preload
?Year Vmax540 Rear KYB 2610 P# 8U7-47480-00 5 Position Preload
1985 Vmax540 Front/Middle KYB WF8 P# 8V9-47481-00 Infinate Preload
Kimpex Pro Gold Rear P# 04-284 Infinate Preload

-F.Y.I. The elusive front shock in the rear suspension just, search for a 1994 Yamaha.
-Center 8203
-Rear 8204

http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/Online_C ... a_252.html

http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/rydefxshocks.pdf

http://rydefx2.com/e-catalog.aspx
https://www.denniskirk.com/kimpex/track ... /10287.sku

7 matches found.
Year Manufacturer Model Air 2.0 Ski 9200 Series Ski 8200 Series Ski 8400 Series Ski 9200 Series Center 8200 Series Center 8600 Series Center 9200 Series Rear 8200 Series Rear 8600 Series Rear
90 - 96 YAMAHA PHAZER II 8205
90 - 96 YAMAHA PHAZER II LE 8205
90 - 96 YAMAHA PHAZER II ST 8205
91 - 94 YAMAHA EXCITER II 8203 8204
91 - 94 YAMAHA EXCITER II LE 8203 8204
91 - 94 YAMAHA EXCITER II SX 8203 8204
92 - 94 YAMAHA VMAX 4 8203 8204

-Recoil Failures
Make sure the rope is long enough, avoid pulling it out to the end and make sure it engages before pulling the rope.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-S ... ccessories
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Nachman-11-31 ... l/41262491

-Rejuvenate vinyl ideas ? http://www.infobarrel.com/How_to_Soften_Vinyl
http://www.professionalcarcare.com/S-67 ... 16267.html
http://www.ppcbest.com/formula_2.htm http://www.leathercpr.com/leather-care/ Mineral oil http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.ph ... 878,419492
http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G15812

-Rust Removal VINEGAR Cleans Heavily Rusted Metal FAST.
This is the cheapest, fastest and easiest way to remove rust or clean off rust. It is nothing but inexpensive white vinegar that you can buy anywhere. This only took a few hours to clean off all the rust. If you have to clean off extremely heavy rust it may take a couple days of soaking the rusty part in a 50% solution of white vinegar and water. It always works to safely remove all the rust, if you let the vinegar work long enough and give it enough time.
http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/T ... ?rel=0&amp


- Stators 5 different
1981 SRX (Original) P# 8K4-85500-10-00
1981 SRX (Updated) P# 8R9-85500-10-00
1983 P# 8U9-85510-10-00 without the hand warmer coil
1984-86 P# 80N-85510-10-00 with the hand warmer coil
1987-1991 P# 83H-85510-10-00Yamaha changed the charging coil in the stator to a higher output coil, by doing this the secondary coil output went up from 18,000 volts to 28,000 volts ,but you also have to use the 1987-91CDI as well as, it is different to accommodate the higher voltage of the charging coil in the stator.
F.Y.I. Double check P#'s ! Check the ohm reading with the RED & Red-White wires if it is a 84-86 it will have 10 ohm's if it is a 87 up it will have 50 ohms

http://www.snowgoer.com/more.cfm?sectionid=770

T.S.S. SRX/Vmax diameter
1981-86 33mm, 1and 19/64" or 1.30"
87 on up 36mm, 1 and 27/64" or 1.41"

-T.S.S. Maintenance
On most every used T.S.S. sled I've bought the Knuckles and steel bushing are frozen and completely locked up and pivoting on the bolts to the point where the locked up joints won't even allow the springs to return let, alone the struts to work when hitting a bump. The T.S.S sleds have always gotten a bad rap for slop developing when the ungreased steel bushing's freeze up they grind away on the nylon washers ! I have sleds that are 20+ years old that have never had a bushing kit and are almost as tight as new. Just take the knuckles and the ski mounts apart every other year and grease !
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-Shim ... f3&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-TSS-Fron ... 84&vxp=mtr
Shim Kits http://s15106.50belowcommerce.com/produ ... oducts=tss
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/100-650.html

-TSS Rebuilds see
TSS rebuild kit for $70. His name is Darrell Ph.# 1-440-965-4912 and e-mail;
dkrupp@eriecoast.com
http://www.schmidtbrosmotorsports.com/y ... r-service/

-Refilling the TSS strut nitrogen
The nitrogen valve needle hole is on the bottom of the strut and requires you to lift the front of the sled just off the ground then, loosen the two the ski holder nuts and back out the allen screw then, tap the ski holder down off the strut shaft.

-To remove the strut lift the front of the sled just off the ground then, loosen the two the ski holder nuts and back out the allen screw then, tap the ski holder down off the strut shaft. Then remove the top rubber cap and loosen the 3 nuts and the two shaft nuts. Next remove the four corner 10mm bolts holding the strut can then simply slide the strut out the top.

-To remove the TSS Springs.

-1st Lift the front of the sled so, the skis are just barely off the ground.
-2nd take the rubber side boots off of both sides of the middle of the TSS metal covers.
-3rd, take out the four bolts of each side holding the TSS metal covers.
-4th remove the top rubber cap and loosen the 3 nuts and the two shaft nuts.
-5th simply lift the metal cover up and off the spring assembly and slide the spring out the top.

-TSS Lowering
If you take the cans off the struts on a TSS sled you will see a kind of stepped washer at the bottom of the spring. The step is about 3/4" or so depending on the model. The OD on the washer is where the bottom of the spring rides. The ID on this washer is where the top of the strut rides. Without the ID the strut would go right up inside the spring.
A lowering tube is nothing more than this same stepped washer with a greater distance between the OD and ID lips. You can make your own lowering tubes by cutting this washer and welding in more tubing to increase the distance between the OD and ID lips. 1" added lowers you 1 ". 2" added lowers you 2", etc.


http://www.vintagevmax.com/springrates.html
Red- 83 up Vmax
GOLD- 87 Exciter
YELLOW- 90 Exciter
Green ?- Phazer II's

Longer travel T.S.S.
The 94-96 Vmax 5-600cc sleds had 7.2” of travel although an inch or so was used up in set in or so called suspension sag. Bender made a kit to get back and use this lost Travel. These struts would work for the Exciter, Phazer II’s or any Yamaha that had enough clearance for the longer strut covers (except the VMAX4). You need the longer shock covers, springs and aluminum knuckles along with the struts. You can find them fairly reasonable on E-bay, any parts forum or salvage yards !
Yamaha also, had a T.S.S. GYT Kit that had adjustable damping along with adjustable preload (Yamaha part # SMA-8CA91-10-00). The 1996 Vmax 600XT used adjustable preload struts.

*The 540 has to be widened to ~41" ski center in order for the longer Strut towers to clear the hood !
I would suggest using one of the following spring rates (from the chart below) instead of the reds.
Purple- Progressive 135 390 TSSPRP $65.00
Yellow- Straight Rate 165 410 TSSYEL $49.10
Gold-Straight Rate 125 320 TSSGLD $49.10

-Wide Kit. The Pipe I have from Bender is ~ 2 and 3/8" O.D. which is very tight inside the original frame and is straight with out the thicker center of the Reichards Performance extensions and therefore need an original piece of frame added to double and strengthen the widen area.
The Reichards Performance extensions are ~2 and 5/32" O.D. and fit a lot easier inside the original frame and the middle was raised with the ends machined and does not need an original piece of frame added. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=100&p=7647#p7647


-Thermostat
Either replace your old or remove the spring and plunger to avoid costly repairs. If gutting the thermostat remember Cold Seizure so, allow your engine to come up to temp before running hard !
-Jackshaft bearings All Bearings
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-V ... ccessories
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shaft-Kit-Yamah ... 7c&vxp=mtr

-Two Stroke University
http://www.vintagesnow.com/SledU.html

-Windshield Quality
#1 O.E.M.
#2 Kimpex
#3 SnoStuff
During Replacement Do Not Overtighten and crack your new shield, simply tighten the lock nuts until they contact the shroud.


-Save your Fuel Tank from cracking and do Not slam cap shut simply push tab and gently close cap !

-Mending Fuel Tanks
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/chemis...ene-547395.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgrftAAaqdg

You cannot repair a damaged polypropylene gas tank with epoxy or a plastic tank repair kit, because gasoline will quickly dissolve the epoxy and the leak will reappear. Polypropylene is a thermoplastic, which means that you can use heat to melt the plastic and create a permanent repair in the polypropylene gas tank. To heat the polypropylene, you need to use a specialized tool that has a controlled heat output. This reduces the chance that you will scorch the surface of the gas tank, which will result in an ineffective repair.

Instructions:

1. Drain the gasoline from the polypropylene gas tank and remove the damaged polypropylene gas tank from the vehicle, per the vehicle's repair manual, with the mechanic's tool set.

2. Remove any gasoline residue from the gas tank by pouring 1 pt. Of acetone into the damaged gas tank, swirling the acetone around in the gas tank and pouring the acetone into the 1-gallon plastic bucket.

3. Pour a small amount of acetone on a clean rag and wipe the damaged area of the polypropylene gas tank to remove gas residue from the outside surface of the gas tank.

4. Allow the gas tank to dry thoroughly before proceeding.

5. Plug in the plastic welder, turn the heat control knob to 575 degrees Fahrenheit and set the plastic welder aside to preheat.

6. Set the polypropylene gas tank with the damaged area facing up.

7. Place the speed tip against the damaged gas tank. When the surface of the damaged area starts to melt, drag the speed tip across the damaged area to tack-weld the surface of the polypropylene.

8. Align the speed tip with the start of the tack weld, slide a length of polypropylene filler rod into the speed tip, and push the filler rod into the melting tack weld.

d the surface of the gas tank.

10. Clip the polypropylene filler rod with the side cutters when you reach the end of the tack weld. Slide the speed tip over the cut filler rod to fuse it to the surface of the gas tank.

1. Lay multiple passes of filler rod if the damaged area of the polypropylene gas is wider than one width of filler rod.

12. Allow the welded area to cool thoroughly before you reinstall the gas tank in the vehicle.

-Restoration/Cleaning help
http://www.lexol.com/


***Disclaimer*** I have parted many Vmax 540’s and the following http://www.vintagevmax.com/uploads/inventory.htm is a list of my parts ! The sleds, I have chose to part out have all been abused and ran hard. Condition is very much debatable and with that said, I will Not sell you junk and if you are not satisfied with any part simply return it and I will give you a refund Minus the shipping charges. Buyer Pays shipping charges !
The parts will be reasonably clean and useable but, will not be N.O.S. (Unless noted) and they may have nicks, scratches ect. If I have listed multiples of any one part I Will give you the Best one I have at that time. I am doing this because, I enjoy this sport and love to see some of the old iron brought back to life not because I want to get rich (which will never happen restoring sleds) ! I have many Shrouds(7) in various condition and find them nearly impossible to ship with their size so, come to my residence look them over and take the one home that meet your needs. I have 15 plus side panels and not one is perfect and they range from a 3 to a 7 on a scale of 1 to10. I have many rear suspensions and or any rear suspension part you need. This list is not complete and I will try to update it often. Prices and parts available subject to Change ! I can send digital pictures of parts if need be.

Charles Schettler
734 Huefner Spring Road
Shippenville Pa. 16254
PayPal is my email
cccsche@gmail.com
W 814 226-1595 M-F 7am-2pm
H 814 354-2687 Eve/Wknds.
Last edited by Vmax540 on Tue Apr 03, 2018 6:45 am, edited 17 times in total.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFb6NU1giRA
"I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." Thomas Jefferson
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Vmax540
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Re: Read before posting a question.... Please....

Post by Vmax540 »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFb6NU1giRA
"I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." Thomas Jefferson
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