new with a 83

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 1:10 am

Hi Everyone, just picked up a 83 VMax. I see someone is keeping track of numbers, not sure if this is the place to list it, but mine is, 8u9 001979
The first of my probably many questions is, it came with two sets of body panels and extra seat. the hood and side panels that are on it now appear to be correct for 83, the others 84. Now heres the question in the lower left corner of the 83 hood is a raised plastic emblem that says "Special Edition", Anything really special about it?

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 1:31 am

Ok, came up with Question 2 already. Does 8m6 17641-00 sound right for a YamI belt number, or does someone know the clutch center to center number? The belt is very tight not sure if its the belt or someone had the engine out and didn't set the center dist.

Joe · Post by **Joe** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:23 am

That part number returns a 'not listed' when put into the Yamaha Website.

The center to center distance is 305 mm.

Post by **tyler440** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:19 am

Welcome to the site Bob... i have never heard of a special edition but that does not mean it doesnt exist... although im guessing someone put that on there and thats the only thing special about it... send a picture of it when you get a chance... chuck is keeping trak of serial numbers and although there is a sticky to post your number in im sure he will find it here..... have fun and make sure to take a look around... if you found us via google make sure you start at the first page http://www.vintagevmax.com thats the best to see all the site (including the article index)

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:31 pm

Hi guys, thanks for the reply's, I have been around sleds for a long time racing, hot rod trail sleds and collecting a few old ones.
My favorite for the past decade has been my 81 SRV

It has alot of engine work and xtra 10 rear suspension. I've always like the early VMax and just found this one, sorry no pix's yet. Not sure what to do with it, its all stock and I think its one of those sleds that will go up in value. Luckily, it has two sets of body work, I did custom painting for 30 years so one set will get some paint. Not sure what to do with the engine, It has brand new pistons and jugs in it but I have no idea who did it. Probably will run it as is for this season but would like to port it. I went threw the carbs last night and their good now but never had power jet carbs before not sure if I like that or not. I have plenty of 38's so may change them. Whats up with that oil injection before the carb? That scares me.
I will give it a try the way it is once I figure out the belt problem, either the belts wrong or they have the engine in to far forward. Hope to get to that sometime today
Again thanks for the help. Bob

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:49 pm

Heres a couple pic's of the V Max

one of the other toys

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:53 pm

BTW, you can see the "Special Edition" badges in the pic if you click and blow them up, I think I saw the same ones on a Phazer

Post by **Vmax540** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:46 am

Bob Welcome to V.V. ! I remember that special edition emblem from one of Yamaha's 1980's sleds maybe an Excell or a Enticer ? There is alot to learn in the (Article section) or by doing a search. Read the post (Best place to run the oil lines)

Drive Belt 8M6-17641-00 OEM
Drive Belt TMX 1080 Dayco
Drive Belt MAX1080 Dayco
Drive Belt 125-4616 Dayco ULTIMAX

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 9:51 pm

OK, heres tonight's question, Has anyone simply gone to a set of standard 38 mikunis? I was/am not a fan of power jet carbs. I'm pretty well versed in slide carbs I have never seen as much crap in the bowls as this thing had, cleaned it all out yesterday. Ran ok for a few minutes then started to load up. Today did it again, new needle and seats (1.5) new o rings and polished the hole in the bottom of the bowl with lapping compound for a good seal, all jets are good and right, new lines, wire tied tight. Doesn't want to run, really doesn't want to start. I thought about timing and elec. but yesterday when it did run, it ran to well and to crisp .
So heres my though, first I hate working around stuff, Thinking of getting rid of the air box and the oil injection, just to get it out of their. Next I have extra 38 slides. Two questions, anyone done this and where did you start with jetting, and second, why does this thing need two fuel pumps?
I have a 550 cc SRV that dyno at 87, it has a pair of cut down and bored to 39.5 carbs, trouble free for a decade.
Any thoughts?

Post by **Vmax540** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:41 am

Bob With sleds this old there are many that have fuel pump problems that result in hard starting issues like leaking diaphrams that end up flooding the crankcase, ect... I now find a dual outlet fuel pump from a newer sled and replace the dual pump setup which will eliminate a lot of problems. I know many who have stated to remove the power jets and block off the hole in bottom of carbs but, I have run mine over 10 years and do not have issues with the P.J.'s and actually get better mileage and performance so, in my mind it's only about the overall state of tune that your sled is in. Read the article (Reliability of the 540) for my opinion on the airbox.

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:12 pm

Thanks for the replys, heres where I'm at now Switched to a known good single pump, no change there. Next I took the bored 38's of my SRV..Ran good, little boggy,I spent a great deal of time getting the jetting right for my SRV. Always between 950 and 1250, any throtle position, just moe the needle for temp.but probably not right here. I also got rid of the air box and moved the oil to the port for now. I do have somewhere another set of 38 PJ's, guess I'll try those next
Any thoughts on jetting without the box just go up on main or do I need to change needle and NJ also?

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:57 pm

Sorry, cancel above msg.back to running like crap, even with my other carbs looking for timing specs now

Post by **Vmax540** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 7:42 am

Bob Vehring wrote:Sorry, cancel above msg.back to running like crap, even with my other carbs looking for timing specs now

In the Articles Section you will find specifications.......

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:03 pm

First, let me say this, sincerely, thanks to you guys for this board, a tremendous source of information. Yes I do try to search all the posts and have found alot, but this sled is new to me and alot of new stuff to keep track of.
On more question, I have it running great right now with my SRV carbs on it. I want to switch back to the VM carbs but does anyone have a starting point for those with out a air box, I've never dealt with PJ carb before. I have plenty of main jets but don't know if just changing the mains covers everything or I need to deal with needles, NJ's and the power jet

Bob Vehring · Post by **Bob Vehring** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:29 pm

Well final update for tonight, went back to VM carbs, stock jets, runs just as good, but still have a problem I had all along. PTO side is weak, when running if if I put my hand over the mag side carb, kills engine. If I put it over the PTO side, barly slows it down. Mag side pipe is much hotter but PYO is only warm. Did the same with either set of carbs and I know the 39.5's are good. swapped plug wires and problem stayd on PTO side. Sprayed Carb clean around seal and intake, no change. Compression on PTO is 115 , mag 125.
Unless someone has any other ideas, I guess tomorrow I will pull the jugs and check with a bore gauge or maybe a cracked ring. Guess I better check the pipes too to see nothing is plugged in there. Again thanks for the ideas. Bob[/url]