81 srx rebuild

onebun · Post by **onebun** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 8:57 pm

two 81s building one good sled with a 540,aaen pipes,its nice to go over everything and make it work properly or replace it.motor was disassembled inspected and put back together with new seals, going over everything and giving it a paint job and some new decals,it has a seat of off a 1990 max.thanks johnny onebun

Post by **Vmax540** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:22 pm

The Canadian red seats are awesome, good luck with your project !

agfirecat · Post by **agfirecat** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 1:45 pm

starting to see quite a few 81's showing up lately. its good to see there a fun sled good luck with your build.

onebun · Post by **onebun** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 7:01 pm

got my hood and side panels back from paint this weekend they look great black with silver mettalic flake.Started putting it back together but having a hard time getting my clutches aligned waiting for some help from a friend so can't do much more until that's done,but i'm getting there,snow will be here soon!

agfirecat · Post by **agfirecat** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:33 pm

like to see it when its done .did either one of those sleds come with the engine tensioner to keep the motor from twisting.its in the service tech bulletins. mine had one installed .just curious

Post by **tyler440** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:36 am

yeah sometimes the clutches are a pain to get lined up... we at vintage vmax (haha) have started ovaling the motor mount holes out more so you can push the motor over further... i also noticed last season while we were in the process of rebuilding like 5 clutches that the fixed sheave can be at different places on the taper... im not sure how to explain this so i will try to make a drawing.....

Post by **tyler440** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:44 am

ok here goes... this is quick and crud but i think it get the point across

from what i remember you can tear the clutch apart and change this area... i dont know if that is the correct whay to fix the problem or not tho

onebun · Post by **onebun** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:02 am

ya i thought that what you are sayinig might be an issue all i did was to torque the clutch bolt to to 85 lbs and then retighten to 55lbs as in the service manual and hope for the best but its still not right my friend is a long time old school yammi tech so i'm hoping he can figure out what is going on but you might have nailed it.I think the clutch has to go on all the way on the taped shaft before proper alingment can occur am i right on this?this issue is holding me back big time,my buddy is really busy but said he will try to help me this week.How do I know when it's bottomed out or properly seated on the shaft?definatly don't want to over torque and snap the bolt or stripe threads.thanks for your input tyler.

onebun · Post by **onebun** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:12 am

agfirecat yes my motor does have the engine tensioner like you are talking about.is this a add on or stock?

Post by **tyler440** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:31 am

mmmm im a bit confused but usually we have a problem getting the primary clutch out away from the frame rail enough... sounds almost like you are have the opposite issue

onebun · Post by **onebun** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:35 am

tyler some more info for you on this issue,the pri.clutch is a 108exp,i have a 11 mm bolt placed in the secondary to keep it open(varyfied diam.of bolt with vernier caliper)using a small sting pulled tight across the primary(about a quarter of the way down so i catch the far side of the clutch)to the secondary to check for contact and alignment.I'm not touching the secondary on the inside edge (closest to the primary).try to move engine around but no luck.might try to oval holes like you say to get more movement.also can't remember the # of spacers i have behined the helix but it looks like if i remove one it will hit bearing housing and i know thats not right.thanks again john

Post by **tyler440** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:41 am

mmmm they make a tool for aligning the off set and also the center to center distance that is very very help full... honestly im not sure where to buy one, but chuck found one and it works great... maybe you friend will have suck a thing, or maybe you could make one... dont for get not only do you have to het the offset right but you also have to get the center to center right at the same time... im thinking maybe you are tryin to position your clutches so there is no offset which isnt right... let me look on ebay and see if i can find a tool..

Post by **tyler440** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:43 am

by the way if you have a 102 you should use that... its much easier to tune... other wise you have to mess with the secondary helix to get the 108 to shift out all the way

Post by **tyler440** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:11 am

ok im not seeing one quite like chuck has on ebay... but ill draw you another picture of it hahaha

if you dont understand how to do all this stuff and your buddy also doesnt know... let me know asap and ill drive up to chucks, take some pictures and make more of a tutorial... but i wont have all that done by tomorrow... and thats if i get a chance to go to chuck tonight

onebun · Post by **onebun** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:12 am

ya i have not asked my buddy if he has the tools but i think he does or at leased i hope he does.the 11 mm bolt in secondary is what they call for as offset and yes i was aware of the center to center distance to.It's probably my lack of experience with theses things that doesn't help much but i'll learn.No 102c gotta run the 108 buth i have removed about 1/8 of matirial from behined the helix as mentioned in the forums will start there and see what i get if i need to remove more no big deal i have acess to a lathe.thanks again johnny onbun