Primary clutch removal tip

standupjetski_com · Post by **standupjetski_com** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 1:52 pm

After a long struggle to get my primary clutch off using the proper tool, I decided to use hydraulic force and it worked effortlessly. I filled the clutch hole with grease from my grease gun until it was complety full. Then I used the clutch removal tool and after maybe 5 turns of the bolt and no effort the clutch shot off. I didn't even have to hold the engine from spinning over.

Post by **Vmax540** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:07 am

Good topic I have used this method ! I have always used Never Sieze when installing a clutch !

opsled · Post by **opsled** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:12 pm

Proper clutch removal and installation is critical and often done wrong. The grease trick you mention should be in every service manual made. It is the first thing I try if the puller won't do it alone. I have only had a few that wouldn't pop off using that method. The trick is to get the hole completely full of grease with NO air pockets or it won't work. The air will compress and will defeat the hydraulic pressure you create when the puller is screwed in. You need a hose on the end of your grease gun that will reach to the bottom of the hole and when you start pumping grease slowly pull it out so you fill it from the bottom out. If it still won't pop after you have tightened the puller you can warm (NOT HOT) the the clutch shaft slightly with a torch which will expand the shaft and the grease which will almost always pop them off. Be very carefull as the grease can spatter and to much heat will cause damage to the clutch and crank. I will use an impact wrench but gently and never let it just hammer as it can damage your bearings. Also NEVER NEVER strike the end of your puller to get the clutch off. You can bend the crank or break the main bearings and crankcase. The ball type main bearings are NOT designed to take side thrust and are very brittle. Any manual I have ever seen says to install tapered shaft clutches with the shaft and clutch CLEAN and DRY. If you use any lubricant the clutch could spin under heavy loads and ruin the taper on both the clutch and crank. You should only oil the threads on the bolt that holds it on and tourque it to the proper specs. I think that most clutches that come off hard are ones that were put on to tight. If clutches are installed and mantained properly removal should never be hard if you have the right puller.
I am praying for snow so I can shut up and ride, Good Luck Phil (opsled)

Post by **Vmax540** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 1:06 am

Good tips and info ! I also, have heard of laying the sled on it's side and using a heavy weight oil for removal ? I personally will continue to use a small amount of Never Seize before installation. I find way more parts are broken and ruined by over tightening as compared to being loose ?

opsled · Post by **opsled** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:16 pm

Hi, Using never seize will not cause any problem unless the clutch spins on the crank. The reason they don't want any lubrication on the tapers are to insure that it won't spin. If it does spin at speed and you then let off the throttle the potential is there for the engine rpm to slow down faster than the clutch rpm. If that happens the clutch can unscrew the retaining bolt and your clutch will come off which can be deadly. The chances of all these things happening are slim but I have seen clutches explode, break or come off and it is never a preaty sight.
Good Luck and be safe, Phil (opsled)