YAMAHA COMET VMAX CLUTCH PULLER. 3:16

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Bob Vehring
Posts: 659
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:42 am
Location: Milw. Wi

Post by Bob Vehring »

I have moved Comets around from sled to sled so many times I never know what they came from. I just have a big drawer of Metric bolts and rods.
If your sure on the thread pitch I would run a tap threw it. I do use anti seize on the puller bolt. It might take heat. I even tipped mine on its side and soaked it with Kroil to help loosen, it still was ugly. The real problem I think is the two dis similar metals coroding to each other. Which brings me to this little story.
Last week I came back from the races early and left the sleds up their for Regan and his GF to ride later. On the way home the tongue broke loose on the trailer. Tipped it up today to fix it. Its an Alum. 8x10 open. All the frame is alum. but the tongue is steel. Where the tongue pivots on a bolt under the center of the frame, the alum is completely rotted away, inches of it just rotted. Also there were Alum' bushing inside the torsion springs that help the trailer tilt, these also were turn to a crusty powdered mess and had more or less welded themself to the bolt holding everything together. What a mess, be careful if you have an Alum. trailer
Bob Vehring
Posts: 659
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:42 am
Location: Milw. Wi

Post by Bob Vehring »

Oops, forgot this. When putting the clutch back on, I take 4 cy valve lapping compound, smear some on the crank and inside the clutch. Now put the clutch on and work it around and around. This cleans up the two mating surfaces and makes them fit perfectly. Keep cleaning it off and look for a smooth evenly colored finish. When done, clean parts off well with a rag and brake clean, do not just spray it down, you don't want the grit getting into the crank seal. Now the parts mate perfectly.
chrisrider63
Posts: 445
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:38 pm

yo

Post by chrisrider63 »

I made one for my vmax that has polaris clutches on the lathe...I could just make some up if i got an order.
agfirecat
Posts: 258
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:14 am
Location: central new york

Post by agfirecat »

bob where can i get some of that kroil ive heard about it but never seen it.i always buy blaster. i think some damage may have been done before i got my hands on it .16 mm was to small and 18 fit good 1.5 mm thread.im gonna try and chase the threads ill buy an 18 tap and a 20 if i cant get the 18 to work ill rethread it to 20 and try that im a little leary about heating the clutch i dont want toruin the crank seal. where would you put the heat ? just below where the belt rides. I also tried the grease in the bolt hole on my one and only shot but it didnt help. ill just keep pluggin away at it. ill get the bitch off i just dont want to ruin the clutch.
Bob Vehring
Posts: 659
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:42 am
Location: Milw. Wi

Post by Bob Vehring »

I have had a gal that I got from a industrial friend. I Googled Kroil and came up with this
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
There were many answers on the search that were helpful.
chrisrider63
Posts: 445
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:38 pm

yest heat

Post by chrisrider63 »

Just heat it with a butane torch where the belt sits on the bottom and put one hammer against the puller and beat it with a sledge hammer.
Joe
Posts: 226
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:13 am
Location: Poulsbo, Washington

Post by Joe »

Be careful about pullers. I have COMET clutches with 16 mm, 18 mm and 3/4 inch puller threads.

Some of the pullers are soft and the tip mushrooms into the retention bolt threads during hammering. When this happens, there are two bad things happening: 1) the top end of the puller threads are working their way into the top threads of the clutch and flattening the tops of the clutch threads making them bind when removing the puller from the clutch, and 2) the end of the puller is flattening the tips of the threads in the crank making the retention bolt bind when the new clutch is installed.

The clue to this occuring is the puller needs to be repeatedly tightened after each set of hammer blows.

Once the puller is shortened by hammering, you MUST use grease to make the puller useful again.

It might be possible to weld 1/8 to 1/4 inch on the end of the puller, but I wonder about the strength of the weld material to resist mushrooming or shattering in the blind hole.
Current sleds:
1986 Yamaha VMAX 540
1992 Yamaha Venture 480
1993 Yamaha Viking 540
1997 Polaris RMK 700
Joe
Posts: 226
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:13 am
Location: Poulsbo, Washington

Post by Joe »

I bought my Kroil at NAPA.
Current sleds:
1986 Yamaha VMAX 540
1992 Yamaha Venture 480
1993 Yamaha Viking 540
1997 Polaris RMK 700
agfirecat
Posts: 258
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:14 am
Location: central new york

Post by agfirecat »

yeah im not to keen on the idea of smacking my hard to find and exspensive to fix crankshaft with a big fn hammer
Bob Vehring
Posts: 659
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:42 am
Location: Milw. Wi

Post by Bob Vehring »

I'm a little, ok, a lot, worried about wailing on a piece of cast Alum. that is spinning right next to me at 9000. I'm thinking you guys with big hammers never saw a clutch explode
chrisrider63
Posts: 445
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:38 pm

em ya

Post by chrisrider63 »

Im not talking about hitting it as hard as you can, this isnt Friday night when im drunk and lonely after the bar hitting just a good tap thats all.
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tyler440
Posts: 692
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 12:47 am
Location: Clarion, PA
Contact:

Post by tyler440 »

yeah im not against a little hitting... but the more you hit it the better chance you have of putting a hole thru your hood with it later... the way you explained it before, chris, did sound pretty violent... especially with the word "sledge hammer" hahaha....

i would not suggest hitting one hammer with another either... i actually know a guy that did have a piece of hammer go into his eyeball doing that..... mythbusters said it wasnt possible but tell randy mealy(local guy) that!
My airbox is held on by one screw, not because Im lazy but because it is less weight!

Any questions or comments about this site itself can be directed to me at tylerochs@hotmail.com
chrisrider63
Posts: 445
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:38 pm

yo

Post by chrisrider63 »

But it was the first time trying to get the clutch off this year and it wouldnt budge......I took it off a second time and it came right out with the air gun. But when you hitting the puller with a hammer its not so much for the impact but hearing it ring to get it vibrating almost to loosen it up.
agfirecat
Posts: 258
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:14 am
Location: central new york

Post by agfirecat »

yeah i kinda knew what you were trying to say chris when i get this clutch tapped out things should be good ive been out riding all sat and mon tues wed.after work but tommorrow night is dedicated to the srx and getting that clutch off. :twisted: i gotta ride that thing its a blast..if you get yours done you will love it.they are no fun when they are not running right my night mare started with the leaking water pump seal.now the clutch issue .ill get it off i dont give up to easily .i just needed to get away from it for a few days and ride. I just wanna be careful i dont ruin the clutch that paticular clutch is hard to find but then again opsled probably has a couple dozen in the barn $$$$$$$. maybe ill pick up a few fat wallet scratch offs tomorrow on my way home from work
tfin
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:47 pm

Post by tfin »

Has anyone tried just filling the clutch with grease or oil and then turning in a bolt with threads matching the internal on the clutch?

I have a 80 SRX with a yamacomet and the dealer stripped the outer threads trying to get it off. I was going to try the grease method.

I also have read about filling with water before installing the bolt then taking it outside on a 10 degree night and picking up the clutch from the belly pan in the morning.

I like the idea of these options vs hitting a bolt with a hammer?

Anyone tried either method?
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