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Thank to you Bob and to all for advice I gathered on this forum. The information was monumental!

This one was a challenge....and certainly expensive to get everything right. Too many man hours to keep track of.

Wow, I have done some tough AIRBOXES in my life, BUT THIS ONE HERE HAS GOT TO BE IN THE TOP 2 WORST TO INSTALL. I don't think I ever want to take it off again! What a pia. Any tricks or ideas?

ok thanks Bob. That's a good idea with the hose tap. The oem design seems like it would take a long time to read and likely read low. I decided to just go with no therm as the water is flowing so much better. Due to interest in keeping this all original, I'll just leave it and not worry about its op...

83. I got her running today, runs awesome! I noted the motor was getting pretty hot relative to the luke warm rad and heat exchanger. I tipped the sled dramatically front to rear and back while burping the thermostat bleeder.....until no air I could notice. Still hot cyls.....so I pulled the thermos...

None of those actually show oil tank lines to oil pump, and oil pump to fuel lines. Looks like maybe part of the diagram is cut off in the picture?

Are you sure the seal is 25x44x7? I measured one today and it was 25x42. 25 44 11 is what mine has printed on it (83 model). A couple 25 44 7 can be used with a few mm removed from both? I'd try it but don't need at this time. They are rated for 250* and 7 psi individually. I see absolutely no need...

Another fyi for those doing these, not sure if this has been discussed here or not but here it is again. The gasket set available these days ie winderosa do not include the mag side outer seal. This is the seal directly behind the stator plate. Winderosa # 501487 t is the one you need readily availa...

Just getting ready to pull my gear to change seals as well. Of course my puller isn't long enough... What puller have you guys successfully used to pull that little SOB? 100's of them on ebay just a std bearing puller set. Look for a set that has a thin wall area that go behind the gear. My set was...

Finally had some time to work on it. Motor should be back together soon.

I guess its a good thing I got into the case. The mag bearing to a beating........all the others are excellent. Must have been run with bad water pump seal for a bit.

Thanks opsled, that was my last resort. Will do. I've done many 2s motors, mostly not Yamaha, this is the first that needed case split to do. PIA. Yamabond on the way.

What a Bit#@! I had to cut the gear off. I don't have a torch but did use the hotter map gas for extended periods of heat on that gear and all it did was destroy two brand new puller set ups. Luckily I found a nos gear on ebay and proceeded to cut off wheel removal procedure. Now, the seal, aftermar...

So I spent quite a bit of time to try and find methods on here to pull the gear case off, and get that drive gear off the crank to change that inner crank seal on RH side. I hope it will be easier for the next guy with this thread. To pull case; long bolts of threaded rod into the stator mount bolt ...

Thanks! I was hoping for rear susp adjustability and have not even looked under there yet, good to know it can be dialed. Right now I'm fighting with getting the pump gearcase off the engine, its on there real good. I got it to move about .030". lol. I'll have to make a better puller to yank it...